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Committing to a holistic, nontoxic practice is a natural priority for Glasson, a native New Zealander who spent a decade working with an ocean conservation initiative. "Environmental issues are a big part of what my artwork is about, and I wanted to make the work not only about environmental concerns, but also environmentally responsible in the materials themselves," he explained. Making his own materials, he added, is not only gratifying, but the results are often superior to anything he could buy.

For Glasson, a work's quality lies not just in using ingredients of the highest standard, but also in the details and nuances that invest a piece with character and life: the wabi-sabi imperfections, how a line sits on a canvas, in the edges and margins as well as center frame. Longevity is another important consideration. "Not only that it lasts a long time, but also [that it] stylistically, aesthetically, is timeless," he said. "That's what I want this work to be, that will still be relevant in a hundred years."

"I think ultra modernity resides in the ability to respect legacy [and] knowledge and improve it," says Franck, who drew equally on his background in history, art, and fine dining to tease out the caf?'s aura of patinated elegance, original moldings, and desilvered antique mirrors. Everything is selected with character, quality, and intrinsic value in mind, from the vintage Baccarat tumblers and crystal pieces to the assortment of exceptional liquors and bitters. Both the concise, seasonal menu of bar food and the classic drinks list reflect unfussy expertise, with an emphasis on superior ingredients and simple preparations. Like me, Franck is a believer in the modern idea of stripping away anything inessential to let concepts and materials shine. Ostentation is a distraction, we prefer function. 

"We serve very refined cocktails," Franck explains. "Very 'epur?s,'"-clean-"few ingredients, no garnish. Our work is focused on taste. We pay particular attention to the choice of our ingredients, to the glassware. No process, no ego trip. The idea is really to put back the cocktail in the front line." 

Whether you drop in for a midmorning coffee or a postwork Champagne cocktail with friends, Cravan's plainspoken authenticity is the perfect rebuke to the fast pace of modern life. In its reverence for history, integrity, and craft, this unassuming bar-caf? achieves something radical.